Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar – Stephen Tanzer – May 2012

Dominus Estate

The 2010 and 2009 Dominus Estate wines are quite different from each other, but probably less so than the original raw materials would have suggested.  According to winemaker Tod Mostero, production in 2010 was extremely low owing to a very severe selection, with the quantity of flagship wine the lowest to date, and less than half that of 2009.  “We had sharp heat spikes on August 24, September 2 and September 28, followed by three hot days from October 12 through 14,” said Mostero, “and we practically lost our cabernet franc.  The cabernet sauvignon grapes didn’t really soften until the end.  The 2010s are tannic and deeply colored, and for the flagship wine we selected out some of the more muscular lots.  A lot of fruit that normally goes into Dominus went into our Napanook wine instead.”  The estate’s 2009 is a much more spherical wine in comparison, noted Mostero.  “It offers lovely balance and nuance, and no one element stands out today.”

NAPANOOK 2009
90 Points

Good medium ruby-red.  Cool, rather shy aromas of dark berries, licorice and pepper, with nuances of white fruits.  Supple and spicy, with an herbal quality to the flavors of dark berries, spices and mint.  Nicely fine-grained in the mouth but in a cool style.  The slightly drying finish shows a good kick of tannins and calls for at least a couple years of patience.

DOMINUS 2009
95 Points

Good ruby-red color, more saturated than the Napanook.  Knockout floral lift to the aromas of black raspberry, blueberry, blond tobacco, almond and mint.  Suave, savory and extremely precise, with penetrating flavors of dark berries, licorice, minerals and cocoa powder.  The petit verdot component acts as an amplifier of aromas and flavors, notes winemaker Tod Mostero, “like a good seasoning.”  Medicinal in a Bordeaux way.  The finishes shows outstanding length, noteworthy juiciness, and firm, noble tannins.  A great vintage for Dominus.

NAPANOOK 2010
90-92 Points

Good deep ruby-red.  Spicy aromas of blackberry, fresh herbs, licorice pastille and black pepper.  Juicy, spicy and fine-grained, with excellent density to the youthfully medicinal, slightly musclebound black fruit, menthol and licorice flavors.  Powerful, primary, chocolatey and full, finishing with serious tannins.

DOMINUS 2010
92-95 Points

Good deep ruby-red.  High-pitched aromas of black plum, blackberry, spices, licorice and menthol.  Juicy, spicy and quite firm, but considerably more pliant than the Napanook, with dark berry and spice flavors lifted by a captivating floral element.  Wonderfully seamless wine with broad, silky tannins and impressive chocolatey length.  This wine was made from the vintage’s most refined lots, noted winemaker Mostero, adding that the challenge in 2010 was to avoid rusticity of tannins.

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